

The Government Museum Udaipur
Udaipur was slow love. I arrived off a deluxe 12-hour sleeper bus from Bikaner, to a hot and cramped town full of rickshaw drivers...
Jun 13, 2019


Of Monsoons and Mornings
The feeling of Mumbai can totally shift from morning to evening. My very first memory of the city was when I arrived at three in the...
Jun 10, 2019


On Chaos and Creation
When I first came to India I was afraid to cross the street. I would wait on the side of the road for a break in the cars that never...
May 30, 2019


The Cult of the Rat
A stuffy 45-minute bus ride south of the Rajasthani desert town of Bikaner lies the Karni Mata Temple, more colloquially known as the...
May 12, 2019


From Ceylon to Darjeeling
High Tea at the Elgin in Darjeeling, West Bengal Celestial Seasonings, the Colorado-based tea company, has a flavour (my very favourite...
May 7, 2019


A Very Alibaug Passover
Some 120 km (but five hours by bus) South of Mumbai, down the palm-fringed Konkan Coast, lies the town of Alibaug. Really the collective...
Apr 29, 2019


Desert Mirages
I had planned to spend four nights in Jaisalmer - two days to explore, a day for Shabbat, and one more day at the famous Jaisalmer Desert...
Apr 14, 2019


The Fringes of Antiquity
Nestled in the rocky hills of the Aravali Mountain Range, tucked between red cliffs lined with scrubby bushes, is the pilgrimage town of...
Mar 28, 2019


Of Monuments and Marketstalls
I woke up at 5:00 in the morning to go and see the Taj Mahal. It was worth it. Wrapped in every piece of clothing that I had with me, I...
Mar 22, 2019


Oceans Away
Last Friday night I stood in a small cluster around a table with 28 Jewish young adults from Mumbai. With our arms around each other we...
Feb 3, 2019